Hempstead 135 Adams Ave 516-844-0294
Oakdale 4118 Sunrise Hwy 631-349-2973
Mon to Fri 7:30am to 4:30pm  |  Sat 8am to 12pm
Truck Down? Bring in the broken hose. Leave with the replacement.

Most assemblies are crimped and tested at the counter in minutes, at either shop, six days a week.

Call 516-844-0294

Home / Products / Hose Accessories & Fittings

Hose Accessories & Fittings

The parts that stop hoses failing early

Clamps, sleeving, guards, reels, menders and mounting hardware. Almost nothing on this page is expensive and almost all of it decides whether an assembly lasts a season or five years. Sold individually at both Long Island counters.

Why It Matters

Hoses rarely die of pressure

The short versionThe most common cause of hose failure is a line rubbing against something. A few dollars of sleeving prevents most of it.

Ask anybody who has spent years behind a hose counter what kills assemblies and pressure comes some way down the list. What actually finishes most of them is abrasion, a bend too tight for the hose to tolerate, heat it was never routed away from, and a clamp doing more damage than good.

All four are decided at installation and all four are cheap to prevent. A length of sleeving costs a fraction of the assembly it protects, a clamp of the right type costs pennies more than the wrong one, and an angled fitting removes a bend that would otherwise fatigue the hose right at the ferrule.

None of that is glamorous and none of it is what people come in for. It is, however, the difference between replacing a line once and replacing it every season, which is why the counter tends to ask what the run does before it asks what size you need.

The wider picture on why hydraulic assemblies fail is on hydraulic hose assemblies. This page is the shelf full of answers to it.

Find The Fix

What is killing your hose?

Pick what you are seeing on the failed line. Most of these have a cheap answer that stops it happening again.

What does the old hose look like?
What happened

Abrasion

The line has been resting against steel and moving against it, usually with engine vibration or boom movement doing the work. The cover wears through first, then the reinforcement, and then it lets go. Almost always visible for weeks before it fails.

What prevents it

Sleeving or a guard

Wrap the contact point in spiral wrap or pull an abrasion sleeve over the run before fitting it. Where two hoses rub against each other, separate them with clamps rather than letting them saw at one another.

Spiral wrapNylon sleeveCushioned clamps

Clamps

Six types, and they are not interchangeable

The clamp is the cheapest part of any hose connection and the one most often chosen by whatever is in the drawer. Each of these exists because the others do not suit the job.

Default

Worm gear

The familiar slotted band with a screw drive. Cheap, adjustable and everywhere. The slots are also its weakness, because on soft hose they bite in and cut.

Best for
Standard rubber hose
Avoid on
Silicone and soft wall
Soft Hose

Lined worm gear

Same mechanism with a smooth inner band covering the slots. Spreads the load instead of concentrating it, which is what silicone and thin wall hose need.

Best for
Silicone, PVC, soft wall
Costs
A little more, worth it
Heavy Duty

T-bolt

A solid band tightened by a bolt rather than a screw thread. Applies even pressure right around the hose and takes far more torque without deforming.

Best for
Charge air, marine, high vibration
Note
Ask for stainless near salt
Heat Cycling

Constant tension

Built with a spring section that keeps clamping force as the hose expands and contracts with temperature. The answer to a coolant joint that weeps only when cold.

Best for
Coolant and heater lines
Solves
Joints that loosen over time
Permanent

Ear and pinch clamps

Crimped once with a dedicated tool and not intended to come off again. Low profile, even pressure, and the style most manufacturers fit on the production line.

Best for
Fuel, tight clearance, OEM style
Note
Needs the crimping tool
Large Bore

Bands and cage clamps

External bands crimped down over the cover on thick walled industrial hose, and cage clamps where the fitting needs holding rather than sealing.

Best for
Suction, discharge, large bore
See also
Industrial fittings

Protection

Sleeving, guards and wrap

Easiest

Spiral wrap

Polyethylene coil that winds on over an assembly already in place. Goes on without disconnecting anything, bundles several lines together and comes off just as easily.

Toughest

Nylon abrasion sleeve

A woven textile sleeve pulled over the hose before the ends go on. Takes far more rubbing than a cover does and is the standard answer on any run that contacts a frame.

Heat

Fire and heat sleeve

Silicone coated fibreglass built to shield a line from radiant heat and, in the worst case, flame. Goes near exhausts, turbos and anywhere a hose runs closer to heat than it should.

Fixed Points

Guards and shields

Spring guards and metal shields for the specific spot where a hose meets an edge. Where the contact point is known and will not move, a guard beats wrapping the whole run.

Also Stocked

Reels, menders and hardware

T-bolt clamps and hose hardware at Moreland Hose

Reels, hangers and mounts

Hose reels for air, water and wash lines, wall hangers, cushioned P-clips and mounting brackets. The hardware that keeps a hose supported along its length rather than hanging its own weight off the fitting at one end.

Unsupported weight is a quiet killer, and it shows up as a fitting that starts weeping for no apparent reason after a year.

Menders, caps and plugs

Hose menders for joining two lengths, splicers, dust caps and plugs to keep grit out of open couplings, plus replacement gaskets and O-rings for the joints that weep rather than fail.

Fittings themselves sit on hydraulic fittings and industrial fittings, and AN and braided stainless on high performance hoses.

Hose accessories and hardware stocked at Moreland Hose

Before You Buy

Common questions

A lined worm gear clamp or a T-bolt. A standard worm drive band has open slots that bite into the softer silicone wall and eventually cut it, producing a weep under a clamp that still feels perfectly tight. The lined version covers the slots and spreads the load.

Get It Right

Bring the failed hose in

Where it wore, how it bent and what it rubbed on are all written on the old part. Somebody will read it and tell you what would have stopped it.